A recent visit by a group of American fashion influencers and creators to a model factory in China has sparked online backlash after they posted glowing reviews sponsored by Shein, a prominent internet shopping giant. Shein, among other companies founded in China, has been facing increasing scrutiny over several issues, including its low pricing strategy, transparency regarding labor practices, and environmental waste management.
In mid-June, the influencers embarked on a trip to Guangzhou, a southern Chinese megacity, to visit Shein’s “innovation center.” The facility showcased cutting-edge technology, including high-tech fabric cutters and material transportation robots. The visitors toured the factory, witnessing smiling workers crafting clothes, and some even had the opportunity to try their hand at certain tasks.
However, the response to their posts was swift, with critics expressing disappointment in their apparent lack of understanding about the company’s alleged human rights abuses and the environmental impact of fast fashion. Online commentators questioned why the group would associate themselves with what they believed to be unethical values.
Kenya Freeman, a designer who has sold clothing on Shein, was among those who participated in the trip and shared videos on her Instagram account. She expressed her surprise at the unprecedented level of online hate, stating that it was negatively impacting her mental health. Freeman clarified that she neither defended the company nor took responsibility for its actions.
Freeman, who first collaborated with Shein in 2019, highlighted the company’s significance as a lifeline for small businesses, particularly those founded by individuals from marginalized communities.
In response to the controversy, Shein issued a statement confirming the authenticity of the social media videos shared by the influencers. The company claimed that the trip aimed to foster transparency and enable influencers to share their own insights with their followers.
Shein’s popularity, particularly among Gen Z consumers, can be attributed to its heavy advertising on platforms like TikTok, close relationships with influencers, and its ability to maintain low prices despite a period of high inflation. However, as the United States-China relations have deteriorated, the company has faced increased scrutiny.
In April, a US congressional commission raised concerns about Shein and other Chinese online retailers potentially being linked to forced labor, exploitation of trade loopholes, product safety hazards, or intellectual property theft. In May, lawmakers initiated a bipartisan effort urging the Securities and Exchange Commission to require Shein to certify that their products were not produced using forced labor from the Uyghur ethnic group. The treatment of Uyghurs, a predominantly Muslim minority in China, has faced international condemnation for years.
Lawmakers cited a Bloomberg report stating that clothing sold by Shein in the United States contained cotton from Xinjiang, a region in western China where many Uyghurs and other ethnic minorities reside. The United States has imposed a ban on all imports from the Xinjiang region due to concerns about forced labor.
Dani Carbonari, a plus-size influencer and model who participated in the trip, took to Instagram to address the “rumors” surrounding Shein. In a now-deleted post, Carbonari had initially claimed that Shein was “fighting with all of their power to not only show us the truth but continue to improve and be the best they can possibly be.”
Other influencers on the trip made similar statements, emphasizing their interactions with workers at the factory and expressing admiration for the working conditions they observed.
Shein has also faced criticism for its sustainability practices. Approximately 85% of clothing produced ends up in landfills or is burned, according to the United Nations Environment Programme. Experts argue that cheap, low-quality fashion exacerbates this problem.
Shein asserts that its business model helps reduce waste and overproduction by manufacturing in small batches. The company claims to commission larger batches from factories in its supply chain only when demand is demonstrated, further emphasizing its commitment to minimizing environmental impact. Additionally, Shein has set a goal of reducing emissions by 25% by 2030, based on its 2021 figures.
Kelly Kellen, an associate professor of marketing at Aurora University, believes that while influencers are key figures in marketing to Gen Z, transparency remains crucial. Kellen points out that Gen Z consumers are increasingly interested in understanding a brand’s purpose and values. They are peeling back the layers and questioning the motives behind companies like Shein.
The controversy surrounding Shein’s factory visit serves as a reminder of the complex issues associated with fast fashion and the fashion industry as a whole. Concerns about labor practices, environmental sustainability, and ethical sourcing have been at the forefront of discussions in recent years.
Ultimately, the fashion industry, including influential figures and consumers, must engage in a collective effort to promote sustainability, ethical practices, and transparency. This requires a shift towards conscious consumption, supporting brands that prioritize fair labor conditions, environmental responsibility, and long-term positive impact.
The controversies surrounding Shein and other fast fashion companies serve as a reminder that progress in the industry requires not only individual choices but also systemic changes. By holding brands accountable and demanding ethical practices, consumers can contribute to a more sustainable and responsible fashion industry.
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